Her får du den meget berømte vin Pingus, som bekendt laves af den danske vinmager Peter Sisseck på hans ejendom Dominio de Pingus i det populære Ribera del Duero i Spanien. Han fremstiller kun cirka 6000 flasker om året af denne topvin, og priserne for en flaske ligger typisk på mellem 8000 og 10.000 kr. alt efter årgang og anmeldelser.
75 cl.
SOM ALTID! - TOPANMELDT AF ROBERT PARKER:
The 2021 Pingus shows great elegance and is subtle, austere and nuanced. The old vines planted in 1929 have very deep roots, and those vines cushion the effect of the vintage (which is more noticeable in the Flor de Pingus, for example). It's harmonious, precise, clean and pure, with very integrated oak. The tannins are amazing and super fine, which gives the wine a velvety mouthfeel. There should be around 8,200 bottles; and the expectation today is to bottle it around May/June 2023, but things can still happen...
I tasted the bottled 2020s from Peter Sisseck and the samples from 2021 that I had already tasted last year. 2020 was the year of COVID-29, a very unusual year with circumstances previously unheard of. They had a lot of rain in spring that allowed for wines with finesse (which he compared with 1996 in some things). In 1995, he harvested late (October) with 1,200 kilos per hectare, and the wine did not reach 14% alcohol. If you did those yields and dates today, you'd get 20% alcohol, so there is a need to adjust viticulture. In 2020, they started harvesting on September 10 (which is early, but they started even earlier in 2022, on September 7), but the question is always about lack of concentration and green tannins. They are very careful with extraction, shorter pumping overs, etc.
He considers 2012 and 2016 years of change, and the wines are now subtler even if analytics are similar, but the perception is different. The experience is that when the wines are above 15% alcohol, they do not age well. 2020 has fine tannins, but it was a warm year of approachable wines, when they did a slightly longer élevage than he thought at first (they were bottled in July 2022 with some more time in tank because he bought a new bottling line).
There will be a new wine from 2021 produced by the next generation, Leonora Sisseck and husband Carlos del Río Jr., from a young vineyard planted with 15% Garnacha, produced in a young and fresh style, quite different.
I didn't taste anything from 2022, but he told me the result is better than expected, because he was seriously worried if they were going to be able to harvest any grapes at all!
I tasted the barrel samples from 2021, a dry year in Ribera del Duero, with a little rain in June, but it's a vintage for which Peter Sisseck felt the key was the low temperatures at night. So, 2021 is cooler than 2020; and in 2021, they harvested one week earlier than in 2020, earlier than the majority of wineries in Ribera del Duero, as he finished when the most hadn't even started. All the wines are between 13.5% and 14% alcohol (the Flor was a little higher, 14.2%, with 20% new barrels). However, Sisseck still classifies 2021 as a warm vintage, following the path of 2015 and 2016, perhaps a little more austere, perhaps the tannins are a little more noticeable and the wines are going to benefit from the élevage, for Sisseck a more classical vintage. But it's not a super warm vintage like 2009 or 2015, perhaps more in the line of the 2018 with more punch, closer to the 2016 and 2018 than 2015. But it's going to be a heterogeneous vintage in Ribera del Duero, despite what the official classification of the vintage by the appellation might have been (excellent, nonetheless!). I think the 2021s here are incredibly elegant. The first year when they harvested early was 2016, and this is the evolution within that era.
In 2021, all wines, except PSI, are certified organic, and they used the new barrels that had previously been used for PSI, so no new oak in Pingus again. Amelia was fermented with 50% full clusters; it's a rare and limited wine from a single vineyard that is sold exclusively in the US. There might be a new wine in 2021, a textured red with grip and good volume, a wine with 20% Garnacha fermented with 25% full clusters. It's not clear what they are going to do with it, the result of a half hectare of five-year-old vines Sisseck planted with Tinta del País and Garnacha. There are four (used) barrels of this. Time will tell. ...
